Sicily, Part One

Today is going to mark part one in a series of posts for the month of March. On March 14^th of 2014, I had the great privilege to travel to Sicily for ten days with a group of fellow art students under the tutelage of Jeremiah Patterson.

The short term study abroad program focused on plein air painting with watercolor, and served as my introduction to the art form. It was also my first experience traveling outside of the United States, and to say the experience was life changing doesn't scratch the surface of those ten days.

It was the first time I kept a sketchbook in my pocket, at all times, everyday. Wherever I went I always had my sketchbook, a pencil and a pen. It opened up my eyes to the world around me in a unique way. I allowed my gaze to linger longer than usual, as I carefully observed Sicily to drink it all in. I kept a keen eye, always looking for something to interesting to draw or paint. The problem with Sicily was that everything was beautiful and interesting! I couldn't keep up! The act of keeping a sketchbook connects you to your world and your experiences. I discovered that even the most scribbled mess of a sketch, splash of color, or quick note can capture a moment in a profoundly more personal way than a camera.

Another noteworthy part of this experience in 2014 was the lack of technology. I didn't bring anything with me. Not a laptop, not a tablet, not even a cell phone. (I did have a point & shoot digital camera for reference photos). All I had was my sketchbook, my watercolor block, and a wristwatch. It was enlightening to detach from the myriad of distractions we are pummeled with every moment of every day! That part of the experience is worthy of an entire post itself!

Each part of the post I'm going to share a few pages from my sketchbook and take you through what those ten days were like for me. Some of it is of course very personal, but that's what makes keeping a journal like this so special, and elucidates why the trip was so enlightening for me.

Sketches of Selinunte - Temple of Hera

“3/14/14 @ Castel Buono

This is Paradise!

It feels unreal, like a fantasy. The teal ocean, the peach and sand buildings, rolling green hills & mountains. The warm sun and cool sea breeze. The aroma of thistle, weeds and wildflowers. It's overwhelming my senses already.”

Sketch of berries outside my hotel window, a Valley along the road to Palazzo Adriano, and a doorway to a bakery in the town

"At Grand Hotel Selinunte.
Not having a cell phone or computer is liberating. I'm looking to this paradise I'm in instead of thoughtless distraction. I don't ever want anything other than this."

3/15/14
Sketch interrupted
-sweet older woman loved our art, invited us into her bakery.
Gave us free sesame-semolina bread (amazing!) and a local traditional pastry - incredible! slight licorice flavor & biscotti"

La Fontana all Palazzo Adrianno, watercolor sketch. Pencil of  ruins of an arab castle at Planeta Winery

3/17/14
Jeremiah haves us a quick lecture about the use of the Golden mean in Greek temples when we visited the incomplete temple at Segesta. The temple was erected to impress the Athenians in order to secure their help in a war, but was never finished!

Sketch of overlook from theater at Segesta, and designs from the ceiling of a Chapel 

"3/18/14 @ 6:45 am
Second attempt at painting the sunrise this morning, another failed attempt. Being in Sicily counters the stress to a degree, but I so badly want to get a decent painting already! I've already torn out five paintings and thrown them away.
We're now staying at our second hotel on the beach. I sat by the ocean for a half an hour last night. It reminded of home, since it was dark and I could only hear the sounds of the waves. There is a stillness in motion, a calm peace in the rhythm of the waves.
There is a strange dichotomy of emotion within right now. Awe of everything I see, touch and taste. Inspiration to try harder, to push myself, to grow. Disbelief that I'm even here! That, couple with the stress of feeling like I'm not good enough & don't deserve to be here. Jeremiah talked about throwing away anxiety, I don't know I can."

Sketches of a house in the mountains alongside the road to Castello Buono, a sculpture over a fountain in Castello Buono, and a watercolor sketch alla Castello Buono

Church Bell tower alla Castello Buono

This day was an important one for me. As you can see from the passage of writing above, it didn't start out entirely positive. This reflected in my subsequent sketches, and Jeremiah sort of came to the rescue. I was tight, and a bit frustrated. He essentially told me to loosen up, and showed me a technique whereby you hold the pencil towards the end of the shaft, like a conductor holds a baton. You lay the pencil on the page, and use the wrist to rapidly lay tone and find shapes through that motion. The result was the church bell tower on the right.

Cefalu Boat in the Afternoon 3/18/14, watercolor, 8.8x5.7"

Cefalu was perhaps my favorite place in all of Sicily. It was a great little city right on the Tyrrhenian Sea. This day was also a bit of a break through day for me.

Sketch of Statue at Duomo in Cefalu, and speed sketch of sunset over Cefalu

"So this morning started out poorly. Struggling to have any confidence in my sketches and especially my paintings. Roaming Cefalu and sitting on the dock, taking my time to paint a boat, after talking to Jeremiah really helped me feel better. The water was beautiful and soothing.
I finally got a painting I feel OK about in the boat. Then on our way back to the hotel we pulled over to look at the sunset over Cefalu. I owe it to Chelsea (Norwich, a fellow student) for challenging me to grab my paints and bust out a quick 2-3 minute color sketch, it was exhilarating!
Adrenaline was high and for what it was it came out OK.
I'm glad I was able to turn it around today. I needed that.
Finally getting the hang of it all - looking forward to the next few days."

Check back next week for part two, and follow me on Facebook for updates on my Argonautica series!